Perfumery

Diluting Resins for Perfumery: 10%, 1% and Why

How and why perfumers dilute benzoin, labdanum, frankincense and other resins at 10% and 1%, with ratios, solvents, a reference table and safety notes.

· 5 min read · Leer en español

Row of small dropper bottles with dilution labels and a precision scale
Working dilutions of resin materials, typically prepared at 10% and 1% in alcohol or DPG before they reach a formula.

In brief

How and why perfumers dilute benzoin, labdanum, frankincense and other resins at 10% and 1%, with ratios, solvents, a reference table and safety notes. Ten percent in ethanol or dipropylene glycol (DPG) is the standard evaluation strength. It is concentrated enough to show a resin's full character on a blotter, including any acidic or animalic edges, but thin enough that it can be applied and dried without leaving sticky residue on paper or skin. Resinoids and absolutes are extremely concentrated and viscous. Weighing a 1% dilution instead of the neat material lets a perfumer add small, repeatable amounts (fractions of a gram) to a formula, which is more accurate than trying to weigh a few milligrams of a thick, sticky resinoid directly.

Perfumers dilute resins because the raw materials — resinoids, absolutes and tinctures of benzoin, labdanum, frankincense and similar substances — are too concentrated, too viscous or too sticky to smell, weigh or blend accurately at full strength. Ten percent, usually in ethanol or dipropylene glycol (DPG), is the standard strength for smelling and evaluating a resin on a blotter, since it is fluid enough to apply cleanly and strong enough to show the material’s full range, from top facets to the acidic or animalic notes that only appear after a few hours. One percent is the standard strength for weighing small, precise amounts of a resin into a finished formula, where even a fraction of a percent of raw resinoid can dominate a blend. Neither number is a legal or scientific constant; both are working conventions inherited from perfumery training and passed down through formulation practice.

Why perfumers dilute resins at all

Raw benzoin resinoid, labdanum absolute or frankincense oleoresin extract are not liquids in any convenient sense. They range from thick syrups to near-solids, and weighing out 0.02 g of a substance that clings to a spatula is impractical. Dilution turns a resin into something that can be measured with a pipette, dropped onto a blotter, or added to a formula in reproducible increments.

There is a second reason, specific to resins rather than to essential oils: many resin materials are dominated by a handful of heavy, low-volatility constituents — benzoic acid, benzyl benzoate, cinnamyl cinnamate (styracin) — that read very differently at full strength than at a few percent. Undiluted, these materials can smell flat, waxy or acidic in a way that gives little useful information. Diluted, their true character opens up, which is why evaluating resins on a blotter is normally done at a working strength, not neat.

The 10 percent dilution: for evaluation and blending

A 10% dilution is the default strength for smelling a new batch of resin, comparing two origins, or testing how a material behaves alongside other notes in a mod. It is strong enough that the blotter still carries scent after 24 hours, which matters for resins because their character changes markedly between the first ten minutes and the following day.

This is also the strength most perfumers use when converting a solid or semi-solid resinoid into something workable for a trial formula. A 10% solution in DPG or ethanol behaves enough like a normal liquid perfume material that it can be pipetted alongside citruses and florals without throwing off the mechanics of a mod.

The 1 percent dilution: for dosing in a finished formula

Once a resin’s role in a formula is settled, the working strength usually drops to 1%, sometimes lower. At this concentration, a perfumer can add 0.5 g, 1 g or 2 g of the dilution to a 100 g batch and land within a fraction of a percent of the intended dose of raw resinoid — something that is essentially impossible to do by weighing the neat material directly at that scale.

This matters most for materials that are potent in small amounts, such as ambroxide or concentrated absolutes, but it applies to ordinary resinoids too. Benzoin resinoid, for instance, is rarely dosed above a few percent of a finished amber accord, and hitting that target precisely requires working from a pre-diluted stock rather than the raw material.

What does benzoin smell like at 10% versus 1%?

At 10%, benzoin resinoid shows its full profile: a vanillic sweetness from benzoic acid and trace vanillin, a balsamic warmth from benzyl benzoate, and, depending on origin, a faint powdery or floral lift. Siam benzoin reads sweeter and more vanilla-like at this strength than Sumatra benzoin, which carries more of a spicy, cinnamic edge from its higher cinnamate content.

At 1%, the same material reads mostly as a soft, warm sweetness in the background of a blend — present as a fixative and a rounding note rather than a distinct accord. This is the strength at which most people encounter benzoin in a finished perfume: not as a standalone note, but as part of the base that gives an oriental or ambery composition its lasting warmth, as described in more detail in what does benzoin smell like.

How do you make a resin dilution at home?

A simple 10% dilution is made by dissolving 10 g of resinoid, absolute or filtered tincture in 90 g of perfumer’s alcohol or DPG, by weight, and shaking or stirring until the resin is fully dissolved — which can take hours for a sticky resinoid. A 1% working dilution is then made either directly, or by taking 10 g of the 10% dilution and adding a further 90 g of solvent, which avoids re-dissolving small amounts of undiluted resin each time.

Filtering matters: resinoids often carry small amounts of insoluble plant debris, and a dilution should be left to settle or passed through a coffee filter before use. The process is close to, but not identical to, tincturing resin from the solid lump, which starts from raw resin rather than a purchased resinoid or absolute.

A quick reference table

MaterialTypical evaluation dilutionTypical dose in a finished formula
Benzoin resinoid10% in DPG or alcohol0.5–5%
Labdanum absolute10% in alcohol1–10%
Frankincense resinoid10% in alcohol1–8%
Concentrated musks or ambroxide1% or lowerfractions of a percent

These ranges are conventions, not fixed rules; the right dose depends on the formula, the specific supplier’s material, and the intended strength of the finished perfume.

IFRA limits and safety at different dilutions

Some resin constituents, including benzyl benzoate, cinnamic acid derivatives and coumarin, are subject to IFRA usage limits in finished products because of sensitization potential. Working at a 1% dilution does not change a material’s total allowed dose in a finished fragrance — the limit applies to the final product, not to the intermediate dilution — but it does make it far easier to calculate and hit that limit accurately. Background on allergen thresholds and safe handling is covered in benzoin safety, allergies and IFRA limits.

Common mistakes when diluting resins

The most frequent error is using an undiluted resinoid on a blotter and drawing conclusions from it; the material’s true balance rarely shows through at full strength. A second is dosing a formula from a fresh 10% dilution when the finished perfume actually needs a 1% strength, which leads to formulas that are ten times heavier in resin than intended. A third is skipping filtration, which leaves particulate matter that can clog atomizers. For a broader view of how resinoids are produced before they ever reach a dilution bottle, see how resinoids are made, and for the wider role resins play in a formula, resins in perfumery.

Frequently asked questions

What percentage should I dilute benzoin resinoid to for smelling it?

Ten percent in ethanol or dipropylene glycol (DPG) is the standard evaluation strength. It is concentrated enough to show a resin's full character on a blotter, including any acidic or animalic edges, but thin enough that it can be applied and dried without leaving sticky residue on paper or skin.

Why do formulas use 1% dilutions instead of the raw resinoid?

Resinoids and absolutes are extremely concentrated and viscous. Weighing a 1% dilution instead of the neat material lets a perfumer add small, repeatable amounts (fractions of a gram) to a formula, which is more accurate than trying to weigh a few milligrams of a thick, sticky resinoid directly.

Does diluting a resin change how it smells?

Dilution does not add or remove constituents, but it changes what the nose perceives first. At 10% the heavier, later-developing notes such as benzoic acid or cinnamates are easier to detect; at 1% the lighter top facets, including any residual solvent notes, dominate the first impression.

Sources consulted

  • Resinoid - Wikipedia
  • Benzoic acid - PubChem
  • perfumery
  • benzoin
  • dilution
  • tincture
  • resinoid